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    How to Care for an Old Dog

    Posted on January 11, 2009, under Tutorial

    world oldest dogs Do you have an old dog? Had not noticed that this old dog shows changes in the activity? This is because elderly dogs have many problems, especially health.

    When we could say that they have getting old? They called as old dog if they reach 7 years old, or if we calculate with the human equivalent is 49 years old. At these age they need more intensive treatment. Here are some programs that we recommend for the “better life for the old dog“:

    As the elderly man, a routine examination to the vet is very important, at least twice a year. Veterinarians will examine the condition of your dog through physical examination or with a specific diagnostic test that will be tailored to the age, race and health status.

    Veterinarians will usually recommend a blood test and urin, more than that if necessary will be conducted inspections ECG / rays chest cavity. Test is important to know the extent to which the body is still a role and can be a normal tool for early diagnosis of health problems in the next days.

    Do not forget to keep vaccinate and prevent parasites infection. Old dog is less resistant to get diseases and more vulnerable to the infection. So, make sure to keep booster vaccinations and perform routine preventive action against heart worms. Protect your dogs against external parasites such as lice, tick and mite.

    Last but not least, make sure your vet knows the condition when they went health and get behavioral changes in your dog.

    photo source: – Good Old Dogs III by dr.Ozda – Worlds Oldest Dog by BlueisCoool

    CDS 2000 Mobile Rebreathing Multiple Animal System Anesthesia Machines

    Posted on July 26, 2007, under Anesthesia Machine

    The CDS 2000, Advanced small animal anesthesia machine is a high end anesthesia system. The one-piece frame assembly provides a small work shelf suitable for holding a table top pulse oximeter or other vital signs monitors. The universal mounting bracket accepts any current out-of-circuit vaporizer such as Tech3, Tech4 and Ohio-style vaporizers. Buy Now

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    Fluid Therapy In Small Animal Practice Reviews

    Posted on February 25, 2011, under Veterinary Book

    Fluid, Electrolyte and Acid-Base Disorders in Small Animal Practice (Fluid Therapy In Small Animal Practice)
    This comprehensive resource brings together cutting edge information about fluid, electrolyte, and acid-base physiology and fluid therapy as they apply to small animal practice. It also offers complete coverage of relevant physiology and pathophysiology, as well as important information for interpreting and analyzing biochemical test results.

    Provides the most up-to-date information for understanding and managing a wide range of metabolic disorders.Offers extensive coverage of patient eva

    Brushing, Combing, Trimming and Nails for your dogs

    Posted on April 1, 2008, under Tutorial

    Brushing not only makes your pet’s coat look nice and shiny. It is vital for skin and overall health and provides you with the opportunity to spend some quality time with your dog. You will be able to check your dog closely for any problems during brushing. Move the hair aside and examine the skin closely for signs of flea, ticks or skin irritations. Check for mats, tangles, dandruff, etc.

    When you brush, do a section at a time, brushing down to the skin on thick-coated dogs. To avoid coat breakage, only brush clean coats and mist with water or a mixture of water and coat conditioner. Mats and tangles can be carefully removed with de-matters and rakes or, if necessary, carefully cut out. If you are finding lots of mats, it’s a sure sign you are not grooming frequently enough. Don’t bathe until all mats and tangles are out. Combs are useful for the fine coat that grows around ears and for feathering.

    Spend time with puppies and newly adopted dogs to get them gradually and gently used t  grooming procedures. Go slowly and patiently and dispense plenty of praise and high value treats. Learn where he likes to be combed and brushed and where he doesn’t. All dogs have sensitive areas that need to be groomed a little more gently and carefully than others. By paying special attention to these areas, you will help make your dog more comfortable while being groomed, and he will not resist future grooming sessions. You will also become familiar with areas that he enjoys having groomed. This is helpful if you need to calm him during stressful times such as veterinary visits.

    Short and medium-coated dogs must be brushed once a week and have their nails trimmed. It’s also a good idea to scissor overgrown hair that grows between the foot pads and, if desired, around the food to give a nice, tidy appearance. Don’t worry if you botch it the first time. It’ll grow back and you’ll get better with practice. Even if you decide not to trim feet, check between foot pads during grooming for foxtails (common in California), ticks, bumps and debris.

    Wipe tearstains with a cotton ball moistened with warm water. Check inside the ears for debris, ticks or signs of inflammation. Wipe with a ear cleaning solution for dogs, if desired, or a mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. Dogs with skin folds, such as bulldogs, Pekes, Shih-Tzus and chows need these cleaned, preferably daily, with a moist cotton ball, and then dried with a dry cotton ball to avoid dermatitis and fungal infections.
    Trim nails every week or two. Brush teeth weekly with products for dogs to avoid tartar build-up, which not only causes bad breath but can necessitate professional cleaning under general anesthetic if allowed to build up.

    Longer coated dogs should be brushed more often, ideally every day. No dog should
    have to endure mats or a dirty, itchy coat. If long-coated dogs dirty themselves during elimination, strategic trimming can prevent this in future.